Fluminense vs. Vitoria at Maracanã

29.November:
Slept till 1.15am to recharge my batteries from the big day out the night before. Showered and planned to meet Imran and Sadiq at the end of the bridge going from the Metro next to Maracanã stadium. Then me and a dutch guy in our dorm went for a snack at my favourite place – Big Bi.

Once enjoying that delicious chicken burger with salad and cheese (no. 6) while sipping some exotic fruit juice, the rest of the party crew from our dorm came by and joined us.

the peeps from my dorm at Big Bi

I then cruised off alone as I ditched the rather expensive soccer tour being arranged through the hostel and did it on my own instead. In the end I got the whole experience for 25.60 reals (85 NOK), instead of 65 reals (215 NOK) which was what the hostel charged – so I would definately recommend doing the trip on your own!

I got on the metro for 2.80 reals (9 NOK) and grabbed line 1 at zona norte. Before even boarding the metro, I got to know this nice and helpful guy from the south of Brazil who was visiting his brother in law. It turned out that these guys were also heading for the geame and we were chatting away having a great time all the way to the stadium. On the way we got off at Estácio (at this place you don´t have to worry about which zone you´re in) and swapped over to line 2 and got off at Maracanã station. I said goodbye to my new Brazilian friend at the end of the bridge at Maracanã and started looking for Imran & Sadiq.

The area around the stadium was getting really crowded as thousands of people were just pouring into the area in front of the stadium. All around you people were sending off firecrackers into the air while some weresinging and dancing next to you. All of a sudden I spotted Imran in the crowd! He and Sadiq had brought along two German girls from their hostel and we all went to get some tickets.

The tickets were normally sold for 15 reals (50 NOK), but since the ticket line was about 400m long we bought our tickets from one of the many black market sharks for 20 reals (66 NOK) – a fair price for not having to wait in that endless line. We got seats in the second floor in the green asection. However, when we entered the stadium we realised that noone used the seats. Everyone were standing even 30 minutes before kick off. We got a great spot with an excellent view of the field just behind Vitoria´s goalamong the most hardcore Fluminense supporters (the home supporters) – gotta love it! We quickly got some beers and watched as each section in the second floor were being filled up.

me, Imran & Sadiq pre-game

The atmosphere was electric. Fluminense started really hard already from the start and only after about 8 minutes, they got first goal. The crowd went insane! Within the next minute they got another spectacular goal to which a massive party broke out in teh stands. Fireworks, glitter and balloons were going off into the sky while everyone were jumping and singing in pure extacy. You could feel the concrete moving – happiness was all around you

some of the atmosphere in the stands

Two minutes later a huge blast from some kind of bomb went off and we could feel the great pressure wave hitting us. The closest 4000 people turned around, but we were unable to figure out if anybody got hurt.

Twentyfive minutes into the second half, Fluminense scored their third goal – Vitoria were getting crushed! A bit later a riot broke out in the middle of the field and people on the side line rushed in! This lasted for a good 7-8 minutes before it all cleared up and the game could continue.. A couple of minutesbefore full time Vitoria got a red card and merely moments later we were celebrating Fluminense´s fourth goal!

After the game, the halls in the stadium were filled with singing and dancing fans waving flags while some of them were shooting up firecrackers inside! It was nuts! The atmosphere was incredible and the crowd´s mood through the roof.

fans celebrating the victory from a pillar in the hallway

At the subway I took farewell with my two Canadian friends and we all agreed that this was definately not going to be the last time met up to have a legendary time together!

Redeeming Corcovado

23.November:
Grabbed bus no.583 to the foot of mount Corcovado. Apparently, this was the last stop and we were kinda kicked off the here along with a bunch of passengers. We were originally planning on taking a train to the top of Corcovado for 36 Reals (119 NOK). Although, the very second we jumped off the bus, some guy in mint green bus driver shirt ran over to us and offered to drive us to the top of the Corcovado while stopping at two additional viewpoints on the way up for 40 Reals (132 NOK) pr. person. This also included the entrance fee of 14 Reals (46 NOK). If you haven´t yet done the math, this means that we got the transport for 26 Reals in stead of 36 Reals including two extra great photo opportunities. As I`m a sceptic, I hesitated a bit, but the offeer seemed just too good to pass on a hunch, so we went for it!

We got the first stop after about fifteen minutes driving. However, it turned out that the two great scenic spots we were promised on the way to the top were both at the same spot, only on each side of it. From the first one you had a great view of the Sugar Loaf and the second was facing Corcovado fronting the statue of Christ the Redeemer.

overlooking Corcovado with Christ the Redeemer

We then drove off to the top of Corcovado, or close to the top. We got our entrance tickets and had to jump into another shuttle bus taking us the last part. I don´t recommend doing this trip with no shirt on, even though it is incredibly hot (especially in the summer, when we were here) since this will not allow you to step into the shuttle buses for the final leg of the drive to the top. Believe me, this is not the kinda walk that you would wanna do in this kinda weather! As we all had some rags covering up most parts of our body, we had no trouble at all and carried on to the very top to take in the magnificent view and marvel at the majestetic statue throning on the the peak of Corcovado.

The statue itself was not as big as I´d expect.. standing only 38 meters above the ground at its highest it´s not very tall, but still staggering and definately majestetic! Inside the statue on its back at the very bottom, there is a small chapel open to the public. The stone paved area around the statue also offered an excellent 360 degree view of Rio. At the very far end of the paved area you also, once again, get a great view of the Sugar Loaf mountain and the surrounding area.

Christ the Redeemer

overlooking Sugar Loaf

old closed down hotel on top of Corcovado

We then went back down the mountain and catched a ride with bus no.584, but got a bit lost and ended up somewhere close to the next beach after Ipanema. We tried asking around, but had to give up as our Portuguisee didn´t get us anywhere and instead we jumped into a cab towards our hostel. After getting back we went to Copacabana for water action and tan time!

A great day!

chilling at Copacabana

22.November:
Woke up in the bus only to have some horrible salad breakfast somewhere at 8am. This was my first proper meal in more than 48 hours. A word of advice: When arriving Rio from Puerto Iguazú, remember to whine your clock one hour ahead.. We arrived Rio (de Janeiro) at 14.45pm. It was extremely hot! withdrew some cash at the bus station. Took a taxi (40 Reals) and checked into Rio Rockers hostel. The hostel is located in an old building, have an overall low quality, cold showers and is really tiny and crammed inside. However, it is centrally located, but costs a whopping 45 Reals (149 NOK) a night! Definately not worth staying here.

As we were within a short walking distance from Copacabana we decided to go for a swim and get that tanning going. Copacabana was packed with locals as it was Sunday. The sun was shining brightly in the sky and all over the beach locals kept walking around selling soda, sea food and grill food from a small portable grill. We decided to rent some camping chairs for 3 Reals (15 NOK) and spent a couple of hours just relaxing full time in the sun enjoying not being on a bus – ahh the good life!

balloon man at Copacabana

sand castle at Copacabana

Later that evening we passed by onbe of the many juice bars in town and went for some fresh and delicious juice and chicken burgers! This place had excellent service and whenever someone gave some tip, the shift leader yealled `Kachiiiing!` while the he rest of the crew replied a unison `obrigada` (`thank you` in Portuguise).

Leaving for Rio

21.November:
I woke up this morning and felt horrible. A side effect from the medications I was taking was that all the joints in my body was swollen and aching like there was no tommorrow! I felt like I was 90 years old. A few hours later and some improvisional yoga, I got a little better and decided to head for Rio along with Chris & Mary instead of spening one extra night at the hostel in Puerto Iguazú, as the doctor advised. In my opinion I could relax, sleep and take my medications just as well on the bus.

A little word of advice is in order here: When getting a bus from Puerto Iguazú, I would recommend booking through an Argentinian company as they are cheaper and the comfort and quality are higher. However, this bus was far from the standard of the last one and it was even more expensive! We paid 315 pesos (473 NOK). Even though it was Argentinian, the same company (Crucero del Norte) and the same class (Cama), there were no food included, no alcohol servings, only 3 TV screens for everyone in the top level of the bus. I was not notified when there waas a chance to buy food along the way, but then again I was nausious and the biscuits I had stored in my back kept me busy until breakfast. Surely I was already spoiled by the excellent bus service we experienced from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazú and was no feeling the pain of having to downgrade. Argh! Needless to say, it will be hard to go back to a normal city bus again.

Iguazu Falls

20.November:
We left the hostel at about 9.15am heading for Iguazú National Park surrounding the Iguazu Falls. This park is considered UNESCO World Heritage Site. Taking the bus, El Practico, would´ve been 5 pesos (7.5 NOK) each, but as we were three people going and the taxi was only 20 pesos (30 NOK), we went for the latter. It was really warm and humid, but luckily rather cloudy thus quite comfortable strawling around.

First some facts about the falls; The Iguazu Falls are a hot candidate for the list of the New Seven Wonders of the World. It is located on the border between Argentina and Brazil and is the result of a volcanic eruption. However, legend has it that a god planned to marry a beautiful aborigine named Naipí, who fled with her mortal lover Tarobá in a canoe. In rage, the god sliced the river creating the waterfalls, condemning the lovers to an eternal fall.

When comparing Iguazu to other great and famous falls around the globe, Iguazu are wider than the Victoria Falls (in Africa) as it is split into about 275(!) discrete falls spread in a horseshoe shape and several large islands. Iguazu are also taller than for instance the Niagara Falls and actually twice as wide with all its cascades. Iguazu allows a person to stand at one point and be surrounded by 260 degrees of waterfalls. Iguazu currently has the greatest average annual flow of any waterfall in the world. The tremendous amount of water  thundering down, the tropical location and the sheer beauty led Eleanor Roosevelt to outburst “Poor Niagara”.

Once in the park I felt a terrible stomach pain much like the one I´d had at the hostel in Buenos Aires. I was also nausious at this point, but this was the only day we had the opportunity to witness the spectacular falls so I had to harden the fu*k up! This was THE one day for the largest falls on earth!

We started by going go the inferior path first and took an ocean rig boat (yes, it´s an open boat) into the two main falls. We got real wet, but our cameras were safely stored in waterproof bags before entering the actual falls. We also got some nice photos bewfore entering the cascading waters. All along one of the crew members were filing us with a wter proof camera, but we didn´t feel the need to opt in for the tape.. The trip costs 100 pesos (150 NOK) and lasts only for twelve to fifteen minutes, but is definately worth it!

the falls seen from the inferior path

small iguana

the falls seen from the inferior path

I would recommend anyone to follow the same route as we did. As weather may change in the afternoon, it´s best to do the inferior path first and enjoy the waterfalls from river-level in nice weather and then continue trhough the superior path, before taking the train ride and the last walk to the Devil´s Throat. This is also the right order in terms of needed energy level to comeplete each route. The inferior path being the longest and ´hardest´ and so on. Taking on the hardest route is the best considering that you have most energy at the beginning of the day and over the course of a long and extremely hot day, you don´t want to save this one for last. Another good point about this order, is that the Devil´s throat is by far the most spectacular sight and should be saved for last unless everything you see afterwards will just be a downside when compared.

As just outlined, we then did the superior path which offered a fantastic panoramic view of the falls. At this point I was in incruciating and indescribable pain. I could barely walk and had to take breaks just sitting down squeezing mye eyes together to be able to take the pain. I guess it felt somewhat like dousins of knives continuously cutting deep into my guts and being twisted. However, the view was incredible and like nothing I had ever seen before. I had to focus really hard to carry on from this point.

the falls seen from the superior path

We then took the little tivoli-loooking train to the entrance to the Devil´s throat – a 82 m deep, 150 m wide and 700m long cataract marking the border between Argentina and Brazil. After walking for about thirty minutes on a seemingly neverending treebridge we ended up at the Devil´s Throat. Even 100 meters away you relized that this place was just jaw-dropping incredible! The whole watery area in front of you just collapsed and was sucked into a great deep from which enormous geysire-like explosions of water came bursting out and filled the air and drenched you! Everything in front of you was just massive pulsating water dropping of these huge cliffs (falling down 82 meters) and in the background the sun was already starting to set, giving the sky a pinkish flavour. It was just breathtaking – truly magnificent. Again, it is impossible to capture such moments on camera, but some of the photos below just might serve the place a slight bit of justice.

the path leading to Garganta del Diablo

approaching the Devil´s Throat

next to the thundering water in the Devil´s Throat

bird nest in the bridge leading to the Devil´s throat filled with squeaking younglings

I got a bit better after our last leg of the trip and we headed for the exit. Before reaching the train station a thunderstorm broke out starting from the Devils´s Throat! Judging by the color of the sky it was going to be rain – massive rain. By the the time we reached the entrance lightning was tearing up the sky everywhere and thunder was roaring through the air. Just as we stepped onto the bus the rai started purin down in only the manner tropical rain can drench everything in its way.

tropical thunderstorm

Back at the hostel I went to sleep only to wake up 5 hours later in cold spasms and this time in even worse and more intense pain than ever before. I felt icy cold from the inside of my body and couldn´t stop shaking. I was a rather terrifying sight walking around in my wollen alpakka sweather shink with cold with blue lips walking with a hunchbck beacuse of my stomach pains, while everybody else in the hostel was in a singlet, flip-flops and shorts considering the immense heat. I was about to black out, but managed to talk to some people in the reception. We got a hold of Chris & Mary and a very friendly representative of the hostel staff. Chris & Mary helped me get mye money, ID and ensurance papers and were extremely helpful. Thank you so very much guys! We then rushed off in a taxi to the hospital. At the hospital I got very nausious. The doctor examined me and told me that I had contracted an infection in my colon (tykktarmen). I got some medications for the nausea, antibiotics for my stomach and paracetamol for my head. We then went bck to the hostel after dropping by the pharmacy top pick up ther medications. The service at the hostel was great. Their representative acted as an interpreter between us and the doctors and we didn´t have to pay for any of the taxis. Can´t emphasize this enough – Hosel Inn is truly a great place!

Arriving Puerto Iguazú

19.November:
We arrived Puerto Iguazú at 1pm. The first thing you notice when stepping out of the bus is the tremendous heat and an insane humidity. I would recommend you to take the El Practico bus (1.50 pesos = 2.25 NOK) from gate 11 at the bus station to Hostel Inn. This is a great place; spacious, high standard, with airconditioned rooms, two swimming pools, two pool tables, a 20 pesos dinner buffet, free internet and eight computers at your disposal. Did I mention that it´s also cheap..? As we picked up a voucher at the bus station we got each bed for only 40 pesos (60NOK). Nice price!

Hostel Inn

King of the Road

18.November:
I felt miserable the whole day as I started puking after the Jason Mraz concert. I spent most of the night puking some more and trying to clean up the bathroom. Not a sight you would wanna see! I got ill beacuse I was food poisoned at the restaurant El Desnivel, in which we had a giant feast just before the concert. I guess my immune system must have been real low as Chris & Mary ate and drank exactly the same as me, but only I got sick..

After extending my stay in the bed to around 11.30pm (chekout was 10pm), I managed to get a bed, in a random room, to sleep in during the day. This was not an easy job considering the fact that the hostel was already overbooked. But then again I had some goodwill at the reception staff as we had already stayed there for about 9 days. I slept until 6.30pm and when I was about to leave the room I got to know a nice American chap who gave me heaps of tips for the forthcoming stay in Puerto Iguazu.

We then checked out of the hostel and left for the bus station in a taxi. The only bad thing was that the taxi arrived at the bus station two minutes too late! My bus had left and I lost my chance to cruise all the way to Puerto Iguazu in a cama suite seat - the top of supreme luxury in the world of buses. However, with Christian´s help we managed to pursuade a lady working for the bus company to change my ticket (for the bus that had already left), allowing me to take the 8pm bus Chris and Mary were taking. Whooha! Considering the circumstances I was thrilled, but still not feeling too good (a bit nausious). I was certainly not looking forward to a 17 hour busride in my condition, to say the least. However, I was relieved as the bus turned out to be of top quality, spacious, with nice fresh air, a TV for each person, blankets, extra pillow and 160 degree reclining seats. Only minutes after rolling off a guy came around giving out whiskey! He later returned with a basket of mints as an American action movie starring Dolph Lundgren started playing; This was pure heaven! Almost to good to be true. It got even better when we got champagne while kicking back laughing at Chuck & Larry! From now on this is the ONLY way to travel by bus; as king of the road!

the Cama bus seats in Crucero del Norte

relaxation

Jason Mraz concert

17.November:
Started the day off by posting some stuff I didn´t need anymore and some souvenirs, that had been stacking up in bag during the last few countries, back home to Norway. Altogether 2.7kg for 196 pesos (300 NOK) – pretty good.

Then I went to thin out some of that wild hair nest at the Gerano salon in Galleria Pacifico (second floor) for only 50 pesos (75 NOK). Nice and quick and as an extra bonus the girl running the place speaks English well enough to instruct the hairdressers properly.

The main event for the day was the Jason Mraz concert at the Teatro Grand Rex. We had bought tickets for 60 pesos (90 NOK) three days earlier and were ready to go. The place was packed and the crowd was extremely eager to the guy perform. I have to admit though that most of the audience was girls between 15 and 25. Most of them screaming Jason in their crooked English hehe, while another section of the audience kept hushing them.. a bit wierd..

the audience at the Jason Mraz concert

Anyway, the concert strted right on time - 9.30am. This gotta be the first concert I´ve ever been to that actually starts on time! However, this may have something to do with it being arranged in a Opera house.. or not.. (kanksje, vett isje, men kanskje isje).

Mr. Mraz played the beloved I´m yours as the second last song while everybody was singing along and then he transfered into Bob Marley´s three little birds – just incredible! Everybody sang along waviving their hands and just appreciating the moment. During the show he would constantly try to get the audience even more involved by getting us to sing along on phrases, teaching us dance mooves, instructing us to give a high five to someone next to you that you didn´t know or ing to the person next to you. This made the show mucuh more enjoyable as the whole arena came to life all around you!

Jason Mraz & band

Jason Mraz in a duet

Jason Mraz in action

For the extra act he performed a great version of the song Lucky. The concert lasted for about one and a half hour. It was very good, but not great. But then again I´m not a huge Jason Mraz fan and for 60 pesos I though it was yet an amazing evening in the wonderful city of Buenos Aires!

Jason Mraz & the band at the end of the concert

magical & funky drum concert!

16.November:

At about 7pm we headed over to Konex (at the Palermo district at Sarmiente 3131) to see La Bamba de Tiempo – a spectacular drum show! Everything in this city is cheap. We got the tickets for only 20 pesos (30 NOK), gotta love Bueos Aires!

From 7am to about 8pm there was a warm-up act consisting of about twentyfive drummers pounding away on all kinds of drum in different shapes and sizes. From time to time the drummers also swapped on being the orchestrator. The beats where layered with some many small beats and sound compositions going off at the same. It was like a giant rhythm infected cacafoni!

the warm-up act

[caption id="attachment_898" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="artwork at the Konex concert courtyard"][/caption]

There were all kinds of people at the concert, though most of them in their twenties. People were mostly sitting around on the ground taking or just chilling out, while some were standing way in the back next to the fence. We were outdoors and as the warm-up progressed we could see the sky turning darker and the courtyard became more loomy. During the first hour people were pouring in, and all of sudden the whole place was packed and people had to stand up to make room for everyone. A chilled out atmosphere filled the air, while small groups of people wandered off to get some 1 liter plast cups of Quilmes beer – in Buenos Aires 750ml or 1 liter the standard way to serve beer. A great arrangement!

artwork made of used plastic bottles

The whole place was centered around a big staircase covered with a red carpet and heaps of drums. We were standing about 7 meters from the staircase and had a perfect view. No more than 10 minutes after the warm-up act, a bunch of drummers all suited up for the show came down the staircase – it was time for La Bomba de Tiempo! Already dazzled and happy chap from the first act, these guys by far exceed any expectations I had for tonight’s show. The music was excilerating and captivating ony after a couple of minutes. During the show you found yourself just more and more enthralled to the seemingly improvisonal drum beats from the fifteen men strong band. They changed the tempo with perfect transitions and each act lasted for about 10-15 minutes giving you time to really enjoy some insanely impressive drum combinations. The rhythm just filled your body and you could see people dancing around you everywhere completely taken by the music. The highlight for my part was definately when a guest artist from another band entered the set with a el-guitar getting into it funky style! It was beyond words awesome! Somehow it just fitted so perfectly to the multi-layered precussuions from the drums. At some point the dirigent/orchestrator starting smacking the shit out of a little drum he held in one hand and started improvising on the mic. This was pure magic! In this exact time period I wondered off to wonderland! Exstatic. Mind blowingly good.

La Bomba de Tiempo

Then a bit later after the guitar player had resigned up through the staircase, a guy with an instrument resembling a bow (yes, bow as in bow & arrow) entered the stage. Apperently this instrument is called a berimbau (kudos to Nicole for the tip). The guy blasted off the craziest tunes imaginable on this wierd instrument. It sounded somewhat like the mixture of a sick didgeridoo and an electric bass. The show lasted for about one and a half hour after having had a long and melodious, but still bombardic extra number and I was completely captivated to the very end.

the guy doing his thang on the wicked bow instrument

This show comes most recommended and even though it costs close to nothing, it still embodies you and takes you away into a magical trance of drumming rhytmes and keeps you there, spellbound! The show is performed every monday at 7pm and if I was to extend my stay in Buenos Aires, I would definately sign up next week as well

Puerto Madero & pubcrawl

12.November:
We spent most of the day at Puerto Madero in the baking sunlight. Puerto Madero currently represents the largest urban renewal project in Buenos Aires and as it has undergone an impressive revival in merely a decade, it is considered one of the most successful recent waterfront renewal projects in the world. We found a nice spot alongside the river which somewhat resembles Aker brygge and settled down for some chilled beers. While getting served Stella Artois in an ice bucket and Iguana beer we could marvel at the white and shiny Puente de la Mujer (Women’s Bridge), by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, to our left. Actually every street in Puerto Madero is named after women. We spent quite some time at this spot taking in the view and relaxing full time.

Women's Bridge

Stella Artois on ice

When the night was upon us, it was steak time! We strawled no further than in the neighbourhood of our hostel (America del Sur) and found this nice parilla with an excellent service. Our waiter, which was close to two meters, was without a doubt the best waiter we’ve had so far in our travels through Latin America! The guy knew every rule in the book and was classy to the very tip of his finger. I got what must have been the biggest steak in the world! It was like the size of a brick on steroids. The thing was so massive it was almost impossible to figure out how to cut it. It was about 10-15 cm thick and to my amazement it was pretty good steaked as well. Considering its size this should be an impossible task. However, I was a bit dissapointed when I discovered that about 200 grams of the steak consisted of non-eatable grease etc. Still I had a decent meal with mashed potatoes, delicious chimichurri sauce, lots of meat and superb red wine for about 70 pesos (105 NOK). I love Buenos Aires!

ready for some tasty steaks

probably the largest steak in the world

13.November:
At night time I got one of those delicious steaks, this time at the hostel, for only 35 pesos including drinks! I am amazed that it’s even possible to serve a decent meal at this price, better yet a perfect steak with veggies and salad(!)

After finishing up the meal I signed up for a pubcrawl starting 10pm with free beer and pizza the first hour. I grabbed a taxi to the starting point (San Martin 875), got my oh holy wristband wrapped around me and met up with the 40-50 people attending. It was a nice bunch and by the time I arrived most of them were already getting their drink on (to say the least). We headed off to three additional pubs and in each one we got a free shot upon arrival and two drinks for the price of one in the bar. Good stuff! By the time we reached the second pub I knew most of the people on the crawl and already had a pending invitation to both a house in Mexico and in Brazil After finishing up at the three bars, we continued with a party bus filled with blacklight to a nightclub called Lansky. On the way over there an English fat little guy in his early thirties passed out and fell over into the corridor in the bus. The party was definately on, but obviously some just couldn’t handle the pressure and excitement of the nightlife in Buenos Aires! Lansky was a rather small and intimate nightclub with two sections – one pop, electronic & techno section and one hip hop section. The party was in the hip hop section way in the way back of the club which definately had an underground vibe to it. In this place everyone was breaking it down. A Lenny Cravitz look-a-like was popping champagne like there was no tommorow at the bar, while Sean Paul & Lil Wayne were doing thier thang on the dance floor. This was the spot! Until about 6.30am, when the bouncer ushered us outta there, this was the spot!

the pubcrawl gang outside the first pub

the first pub

live band at the second pub

outside the third pub (maybe..)

drunk English guy on the bus